Good Old Karachi

JAYWALKING ON KARACHI STREETS

By Menin Rodrigues

Preamble – Jaywalking (a North American term) laws vary by jurisdiction. In many countries such as the United Kingdom (and therefore, certainly Pakistan!) the word is not generally used and, with some exceptions, there are no laws limiting how pedestrians can use public roads.

Nonetheless, I am one of them, crossing wherever and whenever I want in my home country. Pedestrian jaywalking on the bustling streets of Karachi has become a longstanding issue, deeply rooted in the city’s history since gaining independence. This habitual disregard for traffic rules and the penchant for crossing streets anywhere but designated crossings has become integral to the urban landscape.

A glimpse into the past on social media, through 8mm films, videos, and photos portraying ‘Old Karachi’ or ‘Karachi of the Past,’ reveals a pattern of people strolling on roads, streets, and lanes rather than utilizing the available footpaths. This raises pertinent questions regarding the persistence of such indiscipline despite 75+ years since the nation’s inception.

Several factors contribute to this pervasive habit, with societal and infrastructural elements playing crucial roles. The lack of law enforcement is a notable factor. Over the years, the city’s law enforcement offices have struggled to consistently enforce traffic regulations, allowing traversing to persist without significant consequences. The lax enforcement of rules contributes to a culture of impunity, where pedestrians can disregard traffic norms without repercussions.

Lack of education and ‘careless’ behavior also play key roles in shaping pedestrian behavior. The absence of comprehensive education on road safety and civic responsibility may contribute to a lack of awareness among citizens. Suppose individuals are not instilled with a sense of responsibility and understanding of the potential consequences of jaywalking. In that case, they are more likely to engage in such behavior without considering its impact on traffic flow and safety.

Furthermore, the urban infrastructure may exacerbate the issue. Inadequate footpaths, poorly maintained crossings, and a lack of pedestrian-friendly features can discourage people from utilizing designated spaces for walking. When footpaths are narrow, uneven, or obstructed with encroachments, pedestrians may find it more convenient to navigate the streets directly, contributing to the perpetuation of jaywalking.

Addressing this issue requires a multifaceted approach. Strengthening law enforcement and ensuring consistent implementation of traffic regulations is essential to instill a sense of accountability among pedestrians. Education campaigns focused on road safety and responsible behavior can help raise awareness and foster a culture of compliance. Additionally, urban planning should prioritize pedestrian infrastructure, ensuring that footpaths are well-maintained, accessible, and integrated seamlessly into the urban fabric.

The prevalence of pedestrian jaywalking in Karachi is a complex issue influenced by historical patterns, law enforcement challenges, lack of civic education, and urban infrastructure. Tackling this problem demands a comprehensive strategy that addresses these various facets to promote a safer and more disciplined pedestrian environment in the city. How can we tackle this menace?

Image Credit: Team-BHP.com

By Menin Rodrigues

The Thrill and Challenge of Driving in Karachi: Navigating Chaos with Precision

DECEMBER 2023: Come what may, there is no scope for artificial intelligence and driverless cars here. Driving in Karachi is a unique experience that combines the thrill of navigating through chaotic traffic with the challenge of adhering to rules often overlooked by fellow drivers. The city’s roads are a maze where traffic lights, signs, and lanes exist, but are more of a suggestion than a rule. If you can master the art of driving in Karachi, the saying goes, you can drive anywhere in the world. This viewpoint explores the exhilarating yet demanding aspects of driving in this bustling metropolis. To me, it is like a pilgrimage to refresh my driving skills and to pay homage to my fellow masters of roadcraft!

The Dance of Precision – One of the first things that strikes a driver in Karachi is the seemingly synchronized dance of vehicles on the road. Despite the perpetual rush, drivers exhibit an uncanny ability to maneuver their vehicles with precision, mere inches away from one another. It’s a symphony of motion where every driver is a participant, carefully weaving through the traffic in a dynamic display of skill and daring.

In Karachi, might is right, and the unwritten rule is that the fearless on the road has the upper hand. Courtesies often take a back seat as drivers assert their presence with bold moves, weaving in and out of lanes (sic!) seemingly defying the laws of physics. The cacophony of blaring horns, treacherous potholes, and perpetual roadworks adds to the spectacle, creating a chaotic yet strangely orchestrated rhythm that defines the city’s roads. The real use of the steering wheel is not just for right and left turns but to make skillful and complicated maneuvers.

Navigating the Maze – The city’s roads present a tangled challenge that puts drivers to the test. Traffic rules are in place, but they are more like guidelines than strict regulations. Negotiating the intricate network of streets, flyovers, and underpasses requires a level of spatial awareness and quick decision-making that keeps drivers on their toes. Natural maneuvering intuition is the hallmark of Karachi drivers.

Traffic lights may change but their significance is often lost in the urgency of reaching the destination. The challenge lies not only in understanding the rules but also in adapting to the unspoken language of the road. Lane discipline is a luxury, with vehicles converging and diverging in a dynamic ballet that demands split-second judgments.

Pedestrian Roulette – In Karachi, pedestrians play a game of roulette when crossing the roads. The chaotic flow of traffic doesn’t deter them; instead, they navigate through the moving vehicles with confidence born out of necessity. Sidewalks (footpaths) are usually encroached by vendors of multiple kinds. Dodging cars, buses, and motorcycles, pedestrians weave through the traffic, making their way to the other side of the road.

The constant movement and unpredictability of pedestrians add an extra layer of challenge for drivers. Successfully navigating through this human obstacle course requires not only skill but also a heightened sense of awareness. In hindsight, a case of natural mental exercises. The city’s roads are a shared space where vehicles and pedestrians coexist in a delicate balance, each asserting their right of way in the urban jungle. It’s a way of life, no complaints, everyone’s happy.

The All-Hour Rush – Unlike many cities where rush hours are defined, Karachi presents a unique scenario – all hours are rush hours. The perpetual flow of traffic turns every moment into a challenge, and drivers must be prepared for the unexpected at any given time. It would confuse any GPS and AI App into disarray! The ability to maintain composure in the face of continuous congestion is a skill that sets apart the seasoned drivers of Karachi.

The true test of driving skills lies on the roads used by buses, trucks, cars, SUVs, taxis, rickshaws, donkey carts, motorbikes, and bicycles. These diverse vehicles create a dynamic and chaotic environment where drivers must anticipate and respond to a variety of challenges. Maneuvering through this eclectic mix is not for the faint-hearted but provides a thrill that resonates with those who dare to take on the streets of Karachi.

Driving in Karachi is not just a means of transportation; it’s an adventure that demands skill, precision, and a dash of courage. The thrill of navigating through the chaos, the challenge of mastering the unwritten rules of the road, and the constant test of one’s driving abilities make it an experience like no other. If you can conquer the streets of Karachi, you can undoubtedly tackle the roads anywhere in the world – and you can do that with or without a driving license or a seat belt, though it is mandated by law just like anywhere else in the world.

By Menin Rodrigues

How a pair of wheels shaped our lives in good old Karachi.

HOMESTEAD: November 21, 2023 – In the days of our youthful exuberance, cycling was a passport to adventure, a vehicle of freedom that whisked us away from the mundane into a world of endless exploration. The wind in our hair, the rhythmic spin of the pedals, and the open road before us created a symphony of excitement. It may not have been a mode of transport for us like it did for many others, but it was a gateway to joy.

I am sure many of us have our own stories to tell and how cycling was a part of our lives, however, this recollection is about how cycling, as a means of livelihood, was a routine spectacle in the Karachi of yore – in this case, specifically the 1960s and 1970s. Here is a memory recall of who among the city’s visibly distinctive vendors used bicycles for their daily chores and economic sustenance.  

As the very first rays of dawn crept over the horizon, there was a familiar sight that became the harbinger of a delicious morning ritual in Karachi. It was the ‘Roti-Walla,’ who embarked on his daily journey, pedaling his way to your doorstep. His cargo consisted of woven baskets, laden with the enticing aroma of piping-hot ‘karak’ double roti. The ‘karak’ in the name had always held a particular fascination for me, akin to a captivating riddle that begged for an answer. What exactly made this roti ‘double’? Was it the layers of its soft, flaky texture, or was it the way it seemed to magically double the pleasure of breakfast? These early morning musings were an intrinsic part of this delightful ritual, where the ‘Roti-Walla’ not only delivered nourishment but also added a pinch of mystery to the dawn of each day, making each bite a moment of delectable intrigue and warmth.

After the ‘Roti-Walla’ had made his aromatic delivery, the ‘Doodh-Walla’ would gracefully roll into the neighborhood, announcing his arrival with the gentle clinking of milk cans. His trusty bicycle bore the weight of canisters filled to the brim with fresh, creamy milk, which exuded an irresistible fragrance of goodness. This daily spectacle was a cornerstone of life in Karachi, a reminder of how life was so simple then.

What truly distinguished the ‘Doodh-Walla’s’ role was the remarkable precision with which he executed his task. With dexterity honed by years of experience, he would deftly transfer the milk from his larger containers into smaller ones. These smaller vessels were perfectly calibrated to cater to individual homes or, in some cases, to traverse the labyrinthine lanes of multi-story buildings, where the milk was delivered from one apartment to another, and sometimes, from one floor to the next. The ‘Doodh-Walla’ was the quintessential milk conductor, ensuring that every household, regardless of its location or size, received its share of the freshly drawn dairy goodness.

Between 9:00 and 10:00 am, the ‘Machli-Walla’ would make his appearance, a cornucopia of fresh seawater fish straight from the Arabian Sea. Their sales pitch would echo through the neighborhood compounds as womenfolk eagerly clustered around their bicycles, peering into baskets packed with an array of fish, carefully preserved amidst mounds of ice. These peddling fish vendors of Karachi were a well-coordinated cohort, numbering about 500 in my estimate. They embarked on their daily odyssey to the harbor as early as 3 a.m., haggling for their day’s requirements. Returning to the city in groups of 20 or 30, they would fan out to their respective ‘mohollas’ or neighborhoods. Each ‘machliwalla’ had his allotted catchment area for business, and no other ‘walla’ would dare to infringe upon it.

The ‘Khana-Walla‘ (or the ‘Dabba-Walla’) followed closely between 10.00 and 11.00 a.m., an intriguing sight as several of them pedaled along, each of their cycles loaded with no fewer than 20 to 30 tiffin boxes (3 or 4-tiered), neatly stacked on both sides of their contraptions. Families entrusted their most cherished and ‘reliable’ service for the task of delivering home-cooked meals to their loved ones toiling in offices. Once again, these ‘khana-wallas’ numbered in the hundreds. They would gather the tiffin boxes from various neighborhoods and congregate at a designated roadside corner to sort them based on their ultimate destination. The tiffin boxes would then be exchanged with meticulous precision, ensuring not a single mistake was made in the process. These swapped tiffin boxes would be expertly delivered to their rightful recipients, only to return to the ‘exchange’ spot for reloading onto the original ‘khana-wala’ bicycle, ready for their next leg of the journey – back to where they had originally picked up their sets.

Following in this parade of service providers was the ‘Dhobi,’ pedaling his way to your door. His faithful bicycle often bore two towering stacks of bundled clothing: one stack consisted of freshly hand-laundered and crisply ironed garments, tied to the back carrier, while the other contained the ‘to be washed’ items, held tightly together on the handle. The dhobis, much like their fellow ‘wallas,’ were a highly organized and disciplined group of individuals. Dealing with a myriad of garments, bedsheets, towels, shirts, trousers, and more, they demonstrated an uncanny ability to never mix up their orders or deliveries. Garments that were returned after a thorough cleansing sported an immaculate finish, each crease and fold diligently pressed, with an abundance of starch to ensure they appeared as sharp as new.

In the tapestry of memories that weaves together the simple yet rich life in Karachi, the bicycle-wielding service providers stand as silent but cherished threads. Their daily arrival was a steadfast part of our existence, and their services were far more than mere transactions. These individuals became integral to our families, representing reliability and trust, etching their names in our hearts with the dependable turn of their bicycle wheels. Their generations still render some of these services.

In a world far removed from the hurried pace of today, where technology reigns supreme, the ‘wallas’ who brought their services (bread, milk, fish, food, and laundry) to our doorsteps on humble bicycles were the bearers of tradition, connection, and an era marked by personal service, community bonding, and the unforgettable charm of a bygone Karachi. © Menin Rodrigues